It is one of Australia’s undisputed icons, a virtual township of some 1500 people – it is almost a kilometre in length, is fully self-contained and has no fixed address. This is ‘Ghan Town’, Great Southern Rail’s transcontinental train which links Adelaide to Darwin, Australia’s most northern city.
Hauled by two giant diesel locomotives, this massive passenger and goods train runs regular services between northern and southern Australia, providing a valuable freight and passenger link between towns and cities along its vast 2979 kilometre rail track.
The Ghan normally consists of 30 carriages with two locomotives however much larger trains, up to 52 carriages require four locomotives to move the 1.2 kilometre train. The original trains servicing the Adelaide – Alice Springs route were steam locomotives however today’s more powerful diesel locomotives move the giant train at incredible speeds along the vast inland steel highway that is the transcontinental rail line.
Today’s modern trains are much more sophisticated than the earlier Afghan Express trains. Today’s Ghan is literally a constantly moving town of many hundreds of passengers travelling in different classes from comfortable economy seats serviced by buffet cars to the Gold and Platinum sleeper cabins with full ensuites and separate lounge and restaurant carriages. These trains have their own kitchens, four chefs, two hospitality managers and 26 qualified staff, all under the control of a Train Manager – well actually there are two onboard to cover all hours.
At the pointy end of this giant train, two drivers control the train’s journey along the fully welded standard gauge steel track. Each team of two drivers swap every seven or eight hours while aboard the massive train, drivers change every two hours. The train travels at an average speed of 90 kilometres per hour with a maximum allowable speed of 110 kilometres per hour and this increase in speed is normally reserved for the Alice Springs to Darwin link where heavier rail track was laid. Sophisticated controls and safety checks ensure that long distance train travel is completely safe. Each train has a ‘black box’ similar to aircraft and train drivers are required to press a red button on the train console every 90 seconds to ensure complete monitoring of the train journey and to allow the sophisticated monitoring systems on-board to ensure the drivers are alert and in complete control on this giant town on steel wheels.
Up to 12,000 litres of diesel fuel is carried on each locomotive and the diesel is used to drive giant on-board generators to provide power to the electric traction engines that apply power to the triple bogie drives on each locomotive. The Ghan is not the only train which travels along the intercontinental rail line and to facilitate trains crossing on the single track, crossing loops are located every 300 – 350 kilometres and block points are used to ensure that every train on the line is at least 50 kilometres apart. For further safety, all trains on the line have inter-train communication and two powerful headlights will an illumination range of up to 500 metres. Says co-driver Graham Swansson, “Out on the more remote stretches of the track, wildlife can be a problem especially at night so good lights are a necessity.”
Driver Peter Humphries, who first qualified to drive the giant express travel trains in 1981, describes driving the kilometre long train as ‘trying to control a very heavy roller coaster’. Says Humphries, “It is not hard to get the train going – you just apply power to the 4000 horsepower engine. The most difficult thing is trying to stop a train that can be between 800 metres and 1.2 kilometres long and weighing more than 1550 tonnes.” Surprisingly, while there are two locomotives hooked in tandem, only one is used at any one time – the second locomotive is there as a backup because of the enormous distances travelled by the train and much along a route without civilisation.
These drivers have an enormous responsibility in ensuring the multi-carriage travel train crosses the Australian continent in complete safety – just another component of the enormity of operating a moving township through Australia’s vast inland heart.
Despite its legendary status amongst travellers across this vast land, the link between Adelaide and Darwin was only completed in recent times. Originally known as the Afghan Express, the name The Ghan was inspired by the pioneering Afghan cameleers who blazed a permanent trail into the Red Centre of Australia over 150 years ago.
The Ghan’s emblem is an Afghan on a camel in recognition of their efforts in opening up the inhospitable interior to the rest of Australia.
The original Ghan line followed the route of the explorer John MacDouall Stuart. On Sunday 4 August 1929, an excited crowd gathered at the Adelaide Railway Station to farewell the first Ghan train. This train carried supplies and over 100 passengers bound for the remote town of Stuart, later to be called Alice Springs. The train’s whistle pierced the silence of the MacDonnell Ranges surrounding Alice Springs two days later, on 6 August.
The train was steam hauled, and the service had to contend with extreme conditions including flash flooding and intense heat. As such, it was often an irregular service.
The Old Ghan trains ran on light, narrow gauge track well to the east of the track it travels today.
As well as termite damage, it was savaged by fire and flood. Flash flooding, when the normally parched river beds spilled out onto the low lying desert plains, frequently washed away the track completely. Legend has it The Old Ghan was once stranded for two weeks in one spot and the engine driver shot wild goats to feed his passengers.
In 1980, The Old Ghan rail track was abandoned in favour of a new standard gauge rail line built with termite proof concrete sleepers further to the west in order to avoid the potential flooding and other problems encountered along the old route.
When The Ghan first departed Adelaide for Alice Springs, it was always intended that it would one day travel through to Darwin. With the completion of the Alice Springs to Darwin rail‑link this dream became a reality; with The Ghan making its inaugural journey to Darwin between 1‑3 February 2004. This north‑south transcontinental journey encounters spectacular and diverse landscapes; from the rusty reds of the MacDonnell Ranges surrounding a town called Alice, gateway to Ayers Rock and the Red Centre, then north to Tenant Creek, Katherine and the tropical splendour of Darwin.
A trip on The Ghan is probably on everyone’s bucket list but for people living between Adelaide and Darwin, the train is a vital transport link servicing remote communities and providing viable travel options between major population centres such as Adelaide, Port Augusta, Alice Springs and Darwin.
On the northbound journey, The Ghan departs Adelaide’s Parklands Station, a modern commuter terminal, with regular stops in Port Augusta and Alice Springs before reaching Darwin in Australia’s Top End after a two night/three day rail adventure.
The train long heads north across the South Australia’s lush farming country passing giant wind farms on the hills around Bute, south of Crystal Brook.
As we pass these massive wind turbines our attention is quickly turned to a sweeping bend where the front and back of the train is visible from the middle carriages. The landscape quickly changes in hues of ochre, silver and green as the Flinders Ranges come into view.
While The Ghan, does the Adelaide ‑ Darwin run on a regular basis, our first trip aboard the iconic train was on a special train – the 2011 ANZAC Tribute Train, a commemorative rail journey organised by Great Southern Rail in conjunction with the RSL. The normal two night/three day rail adventure, often referred to an one of the great rail journeys of the world, had been extended to allow for a more relaxed four day journey that tracks the routes used by the wartime Ghans ‑ trains which carried men, munitions and valuable supplies to Australia’s northern capital.
Although the original narrow gauge rail line has long since been replaced by a new fully welded standard gauge line (no more clickity clack as the giant train rolls along the massive steel line highway linking north and south, we were also to experience a journey aboard an original Ghan train from Port Augusta to Quorn in South Australia’s Upper North.
Boarding the steam train now operated by the Pichi Richi Railway Preservation Society, complete with its authentic wooden carriages and beautifully restored green leather bench seats with classic pull‑down windows, the ‘original Ghan’ heads north along a winding narrow gauge track as it climbs hundreds of feet into the Flinders Ranges to the quaint and historic township of Quorn.
It was a wonderfully rustic experience ‑ the smell of burning coal and steam fills the air as the train pulls away from Port Augusta platform. Then there is the screeching of steel on steel as the train meanders along the historic track at a more sedate pace than today’s modern diesel powered trains, climbing slowly through passes and over dry river beds where stately gums dominate the landscape.
While Quorn is nowdays, well off the beaten track, it was once, during the war years, a thriving railway town as it linked Western and Northern Australia with the eastern seaboard. During World War II, the Ghan trains carried thousands of Australian army personnel north to Darwin and the Pacific.
Rejoining the modern dual engine Ghan at Port Augusta, the train rolled out early next morning for Manguri ‑ a desert siding literally in the middle of the great Australian outback. Manguri is strategically located close to the opal capital of the world ‑ Coober Pedy. Opals were discovered in Coober Pedy well before the turn of the 20th century however it was the returning diggers from World War I that really started to develop the opal rich fields around this outback township. The first diggers settled the area in 1916 and because of their limited digging equipment, only mined to depths of around six feet however today, more modern equipment means that some mines extend downward some 200 feet.
It was returning diggers ‑ veterans of the fierce Gallipoli and French campaigns who had spent years digging bunkers underground to avoid exploding artillery shells in the trenches, who began to carve an unusual underground settlement in the Australian outback.
Coober Pedy is unusual in the fact that most residences (the town has a population of around 2500 people with some 820 miners working the opal fields extending 65 kilometres north, south, east and west of the township) live underground to avoid the extremes of temperature variation. In summer the mercury can reach as high as 47 degrees while in winter, on the flat landscape around Coober Pedy punctuated only by multi‑dimensional mullock heaps, the temperature can plunge to minus two degrees.
Today, the multi‑cultural community is well serviced and attracts thousands of tourists each year. Some even come to try their luck at mining for opals but even in today’s techno world, there is no instrument that can detect opal. It can only be done by exploratory diggings ‑ the small mullock heaps are exploratory sites quickly abandoned after no gems were found.
Although not a pretty town, it is ringed by a green carpet of natural vegetation. The area has benefited from good summer rains over the past two seasons and is, without question, the opal capital of the world. Here, on the lonely desolate plains of outback South Australia, more than 90 percent of the world’s opals are mined.
It was a fascinating afternoon exploring a far flung settlement in Outback Australia ‑ a township with so much history and even today as the Afghan cameleers of last century provided a valuable link with civilisation, the modern Ghan train continues to do so today.
One of the great things about train travel is that there are oceans of time to relax.
We enjoy a drink and a few yarns in the Lounge Car before retiring to the Queen Adelaide Restaurant ‑ a carriage which seats 48 people in elegant fashion ‑ really old world charm as the staff treat us to another fabulous three course meal and service that is so attentive, you could be forgiven for thinking you were in a luxury six star European hotel. Be warned, any trip on the Ghan is a culinary feast of exceptional quality and served in style by experienced and dedicated staff. Led by Hospitality Manager Garry Slater, the staff of this ever-moving township excels at every opportunity. Says Garry Slater, “It’s all about service, service, service” and that they do deliver and with considerable passion, enthusiasm and aplomb. They are worthy ambassadors of such a legendary train.
After dinner, it was back to the Lounge Car for some light entertainment. Great Southern Rail’s ‘special trains’ are legendary for the quality of entertainment offered on-board. The ANZAC Tribute Train was to be no exception. What better way to spend a Sunday evening as The Ghan rolled into the night and across the border into the Northern Territory.
For those who have never experienced travel train before, there can often be some apprehension as to whether sleeping aboard a giant 1500 tonne rolling monster is possible and comfortable. Well, let me allay those fears ‑ the Gold and Platinum cabins offer superb comfort. While both have ensuites, the Platinum cabins have a double bed and considerably more room. The Gold cabins have an upper and lower bunk configuration ‑ all turned down by the staff while you are enjoying dinner.
It is nightfall in Ghan Town and slumber time is soon reached. After a good night’s sleep, the best part is the early morning cup of tea or coffee delivered to your cabin ‑ how good is that! ‑ particularly as we had travelled many miles during the night to have the train arrive in Alice Springs in time for the Dawn Service on ANZAC Hill. In the somewhat brisk morning air of Central Australia, we stood in reverence of those who served and died for our country in times of war.
Well known Australian balladeer John Williamson sang the National Anthem and the haunting sounds of the Last Post concluded an inspiring service watched by generations of Australians from all walks of life.
The ANZAC Tribute Train carried representatives of Australian RSL branches and several old soldiers from World War II, the Korean and Vietnam wars and more recent conflicts in the Middle East and the Pacific. It was a special time to remember and the Ghan Tribute Train brought great camaraderie and a wonderful display of mateship and that undying ANZAC spirit.
I’ve been to many ANZAC services but this one will live on in my memory as a very special event. Returning to the train, another fabulous lunch was enjoyed in the Queen Adelaide Restaurant carriage. All meals are prepared on the train in special carriages set up as fully stainless steel kitchens. The logistics of what the Ghan Town chefs do is simply enormous – breakfast, lunch and dinner for as many as 1500 guests in a constantly moving environment. All supplies for each trip are loaded in Adelaide and this is not packaged fare – this is fine dining at its very best.
As would be expected, the onboard chefs are colourful characters, just like Hung Van Hoang or more commonly known by his nickname of ‘Well’ – perhaps for which no explanation is needed! ‘Well’ was one of the original Vietnamese boat people. After the end of the Vietnam War, Well sought a better life in Australia and made the dangerous and arduous journey with 61 other refugees in a 10 metre boat to Australia. Ironically, Well learnt his trade in the Vietnamese Army. He was worked on the Ghan since 2000.
Head Chef on our train was John Cousins. John had been with Great Southern Rail for the past five and a half years. As John explained, “There is no ‘my job’ or ‘your’ job – in such a confined environment; we must all work together in harmony.” While the menus on The Ghan are designed by an Adelaide based Executive Chef, all chefs working on the train have input in the specially designed summer and winter menus.
On a normal Ghan service, the culinary team aboard The Ghan in Gold and Platinum Class are required to prepare seven meals on both the north and south bound service for as many as 96 passengers requiring two seatings of 48 persons in the Queen Adelaide Restaurant. In addition, these chefs are also required to provide meals for the staff on The Ghan.
The quality of meals served on The Ghan is simply outstanding and once refreshed, the afternoon was free to explore the sights and sounds of Alice Springs. Neville Shute immortalised this strategic Central Australian township in his novel, ‘A Town like Alice’, However, suffice to say, the title of the novel could well have been ‘There is No Town Like Alice’. There is so much history here and while many still consider the Alice a frontier town, it is a thriving metropolis shadowed by the not‑too distant MacDonnell Ranges and the imposing Simpsons Gap, through which our giant train passed on route to Alice Springs.
Alice Springs is hardly a town, it is a modern inland mecca of some 30,000 people and is almost the geographical centre of Australia. By contrast, the wartime population of Alice Springs was just 594 people plus some 7400 service personnel. It is midway between Adelaide and Darwin and was until February 2004, the northern terminus for The Ghan.
Alice Springs is a town of extremes ‑ the coldest temperature on record saw the mercury plummet to minus 7.5 degrees Celsius while in midsummer, temperatures soar to 45 degrees. It is here that the famous Henley on Todd dry river regatta is held and although the Alice is situated on the Todd River, the town actually survives on bore water. Some say Alice Springs is the heart, the soul and the centre of Australia.
Just on dusk, The Ghan rolls out of the Alice on the final leg of our fabulous journey across almost 3000 kilometres of the Australian continent. There was some reminiscing over dinner in the Queen Adelaide Restaurant on ANZAC Day evening as, while more adventure awaited us the next day, there was a reality that by Tuesday evening, we would be in Darwin, at the end of our transcontinental journey.
An amazing thing has happened on our trip north across Australia’s vast inland and it is something that simply doesn’t happen with air travel. We had made numerous acquaintances from varied walks of life from across Australia and the rest of the world ‑ some friendships I am sure will be long lasting. The Ghan had truly recreated the ANZAC spirit and a wonderful sense of mateship and camaraderie amongst those of us lucky enough to be aboard Great Southern Rail’s first ever ANZAC Tribute Train. Perhaps it is the ability to relax in the restaurant and lounge cars and enjoy a conversation with fellow passengers that is at the heart of The Ghan experience.
Naval historian Tom Lewis had joined the Tribute Train in Adelaide and along the way, gave us a fascinating insight into the war years, the importance of The Ghan Troop trains and the impact of Japanese bombings on Darwin and Katherine.
As we approached the town of Katherine, Tom gave us a history lesson on the wartime effort in Northern Australia. Katherine had been a strategic centre during World War II as had Adelaide River, just a few miles up the track.
But first, a quick trip around Katherine, a quaint outback town ‑ a place that the hustle and bustle of modern city life seems to have conveniently forgotten. Our next stop is the spectacular Katherine Gorge. The gorge was created over millions of years by the Katherine River as it winds its way over ancient sandstone rock forms. Situated in Nitmiluk National Park, a trip down the Katherine River through the world famous gorge is a ‘must‑do’ experience.
Local aboriginal groups operate flat bottom punts along the river and Great Southern Rail has organised punts to take The Ghan passengers on a cruise up river through the Katherine Gorge. The river here is a khaki green rimmed by massive ancient sandstone rock walls with fascinating colours of ochre, black and limestone. Water running over the face of the rocks over millions of years has left unusual patterns on the rock faces. The rock faces are interspersed with the occasional eucalyptus perilously clinging to the rock face while pandanus trees, bent by the force of the river, and fresh water mangroves dot the river’s edge. The river widens and narrows and here and there, beautiful sandy beaches have been formed in small coves along the river’s edge.
It is hard to imagine that the river rises and falls more than seven metres during the wet season. The flat bottom punts operate along the river from April to December. We enjoyed a superb morning tea of fresh scones, jam and cream ‑ genuine country cooking on display.
On return to the picnic grounds at Katherine Gorge, we are entertained by young local aboriginal dancers but more was to come. John Williamson has set up stage on the lawns just up from the jetty and together with music industry legend Col Watson, John Williamson gave an outstanding performance on the lawn at Katherine Gorge. During his career, Williamson has written hundreds of songs and curiously, he only sings two songs which he has not written ‑ those being Waltzing Matilda as well as ‘And the Band Played Waltzing Matilda’.
Williamson captivated his several hundred strong audiences concluding with his signature song, ‘True Blue’. Then it was back to the buses for the 30 kilometre trek back to join The Ghan on the final leg of its ANZAC Tribute.
But next, a stop at Adelaide River to inspect the Adelaide River War Cemetery. Here 434 servicemen who paid the ultimate price during World War II are at rest. Like so many war cemetriess Alive River is set amid a tranquil tropical garden with immacutely maintained lawns and hedges. Servicemen from all branches of the services are buried here and the most poignant reminder of the futile waste of war is the age of many buried here ‑ most only in their teens or early 20s and then there is the occasion grave with the headstone, ‘Known only to God’.
The Ghan doesn’t normally stop at Adelaide River but because of the significance of the ANZAC Tribute Train, but it was fitting and allowed us to pay our respects to the fallen ‑ young men who died in the service of their country in time of war.
Back on the train, we enjoy afternoon tea in the Lounge carriage before retiring to our cabins to pack and enjoy the remaining 90 minutes aboard the legendary travel train as its pushes north through ever changing tropical vegetation before reaching Darwin approaching 7.30pm on Tuesday 26 April.
It hardly seemed four days since our train pulled out of the Adelaide terminus to re‑enact the journeys of the ANZAC Troop trains which regularly travelled the steel highway during the war years. We had traversed the heart of the continent and passed many remote settlements and towns to reach Australia’s northern capital.
We had experienced life in a virtual ever-moving township of people from diverse backgrounds and all walks of life. In this unique setting we called ‘Ghan Town’ it is not hard to understand the historical significance of The Ghan and its place in Australian history.
It is an iconic symbol of the spirit of Australians and their determination to overcome the tyranny of distance. The Ghan is and always will be amongst the very fabric of Australian folklore. It is a very special town everyone should visit and spend some time. It is simply like no other experience.
The Ghan runs regular services between Adelaide, Darwin and return. For bookings and further information on a complete range of packaged holidays, visit https://journeybeyondrail.com.au/
The 2012 ANZAC Tribute Train commences its four-day sojourn in Darwin to commemorate the 70thanniversary of the bombing of Darwin and travels southward to Adelaide, again commemorating ANZAC Day in Alice Springs. The full itinerary including special entertainment is available on the Great Southern Rail website.
Story & Photography: Peter Scott
